Flowering

She’s making the buds now. Your job is to hold your nerve.

Flowering is where everything you’ve done pays off — or doesn’t. The plant knows how to do this. Set the stage, read her signals, and resist the urge to “do something”.

What good looks like

Week by week, flip to ripe

  1. Day 0

    The flip

    You switch to 12/12 and start the clock. Measure first — she will double, sometimes triple, in height. Flip at 30–40cm in a 1.6m tent so the stretch has headroom.

    The flip
  2. Wk 1–3

    The stretch

    She rockets up — up to an inch a day. This is exactly right. Hands off: no topping, no defoliating. Bridge the feed gently toward potassium.

    The stretch
  3. Wk 2–4

    First pistils

    White hairs at the nodes — she has committed to flower. Feed shifts fully to bloom: phosphorus and potassium up, nitrogen down. Start at half strength.

    First pistils
  4. Wk 4–6

    The swell

    Buds stack, trichomes frost over, the tent starts to reek (carbon-filter time). EC 1.8–2.0, humidity down to 45%, air always moving.

    The swell
  5. Wk 6–8

    Home stretch

    Lower leaves yellow and drop — that is her finishing, not failing. Feed tapers right back, humidity to 40%, an optional gentle flush.

    Home stretch
  6. Ripe

    She tells you

    70–90% cloudy trichomes with 10–20% amber, under a loupe. The calendar lies. The trichomes do not.

    She tells you

The numbers that matter

Six you actually need

×2height in the stretch — plan your headroom
<50%humidity in flower (40% in the last 2 weeks)
20–26°day temp · 17–21° at night
1.8–2.0feed EC, leaning hard on P & K
600–900PPFD at the canopy
70–90%cloudy trichomes = harvest window

Do this

The flowering checklist

  • Measure the tent and flip at 30–40cm — leave room for the stretch
  • Hands off during the stretch: you did your training in veg
  • Move to bloom feed gradually — half strength, working up
  • Get humidity under 50% — in Ireland a dehumidifier is insurance, not luxury
  • Oscillating fan for airflow + a carbon filter on the extraction
  • Tape every light leak and indicator LED before you flip
  • Buy a loupe or USB scope — harvest on trichomes, never the calendar

Watch for

Catch these early

The early sign, what it means, and the fix. The full stories are in the book.

A leaf inside a cola has gone yellow or brown for no clear reason

Bud rot (botrytis), working from the inside out where the air can’t reach.

Fix: Humidity under 50%, keep air moving, run a dehumidifier. Cut out affected buds and sterilise between cuts.

📖 Dave lost his four biggest colas to this on grow three. The full story →

The tent zip — or an indicator LED — glows during lights-off

A broken dark period can turn her hermaphrodite: pollen sacs, then seeds instead of resin.

Fix: Sit in the tent with the lights off and tape every pinprick. Even the green LED on the power strip.

📖 A two-second flash from a phone can seed the whole tent. The full story →

She is kissing the light and you have reached for the scissors

Topping or heavy defoliation in week one stalls her for a fortnight — energy goes to healing, not buds.

Fix: Leave her be. Tuck a leaf, bend a branch, but no surgery during the stretch.

📖 Dave topped his in week one and pulled 19g off a plant that should have given three times that. The full story →

The seed bank said 8 weeks, the hairs are orange, and you’re itching to chop

Harvesting by the calendar usually means a week or two early — thin, racy, underwhelming smoke.

Fix: Check trichomes at several bud sites under magnification. Cloudy for energy, a little amber for balance.

📖 The Rusher always regrets it. The full story →

Questions

Flowering FAQ

When do I flip to 12/12?

When she’s about 30–40cm in a standard 1.6m tent. Measure the tent, subtract pot height, your light’s hanging distance, and ~40cm of clearance — what’s left is your max height at flip. She’ll double in the stretch, so flip earlier than feels comfortable.

How much will she actually stretch?

Most plants double in height over the first two to three weeks; sativa-heavy genetics can triple. It’s not optional and it’s not a problem — it’s her building the scaffolding the buds form on. Plan headroom rather than fighting it.

My lower leaves are yellowing in late flower — what’s wrong?

Probably nothing. In the last couple of weeks she pulls mobile nutrients out of the old leaves to fuel the final push. That’s an annual plant finishing on purpose — not a deficiency. Don’t reach for more nitrogen.

Do I need to flush before harvest?

The science is genuinely debated. What’s not debated is that overfed plants taste harsh. For a first grow a gentle final-week flush (plain pH’d water) is a safe play — but proper feeding throughout matters more than any flush.

When exactly do I harvest?

When 70–90% of the trichomes on the buds (not the leaves) are cloudy/milky, with maybe 10–20% turned amber, viewed under a loupe or scope. Cloudy is energetic, amber is sedating. Ignore the seed bank’s week estimate.

The whole story is in the book

The mistakes here are Dave’s, told properly — the panic, the scissors, the 19-gram harvest, the four lost colas. The web gives you the lesson; Grow Good Bud keeps the scars.

The web gives you the lesson; Grow Good Bud keeps the scars. The kit to grow it is at Dublin Indoor Gardening.